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The best places to eat in Rome in 2023

There are a number of signs that I’ve reached Rome. The effortless style of linen-clad gentlemen. The temptation of gelato on almost every block. Ancient architecture as a backdrop to daily life. Chic women navigating cobblestone streets in heels. And the unapologetic joy that locals take in asking a pretty woman out on a date – no matter what the scenario.

“Are you feeling good?” I hear. I pull my headphones out and wipe the sweat off my brow. I’ve been running for 30 minutes through Villa Borghese park in a heatwave so it’s not a glamorous sight. Caught off-guard, I stumble for a reply to the significantly less sweaty and designer-clad Italian stallion. “Umm, yes. Runner’s high, I guess.” And so it begins; the questions unfold.

“Where are you from? How long are you staying in Rome? Would you like to join me for dinner tonight?” After I politely decline – my husband is back at the hotel still waking up to the day – he smiles. “No problema. Have a wonderful stay in Rome. Ciao, bella!” and he runs off.

There’s no shame in my rejection and it’s not an embarrassing, affronting or upsetting situation. Instead, I’m flattered to have been asked, and the gent in question has had the pleasure of a morning conversation with a 30-something Australian.

There’s something about Rome that truly does conjure up joie de vivre – and, yes, I’m aware this statement is cross-contaminating cultural clichés. There’s no shame in indulging in multiple gelati in one day, slurping down a plate of carbohydrates with wine for lunch, or in taking any opportunity to ask a lady for dinner. The Roman way of life truly is la dolce vita – the sweet life, celebrating life by seeking pleasure at every twist and turn.

From under the shade of red-and-white-striped umbrellas in the tranquil courtyard of the Hotel de la Ville – just above the Spanish Steps – I slip into the buffet to replenish my plate. The spread in front of the open kitchen is impeccable: plates laden with summer fruits, cured meats, fresh cheeses, pickled vegetables and a collection of house-made cakes, tarts and pastries to cause a sweet-toothed travel writer to go weak at the knees. By day three of dining in Rome I’m acutely aware that I’ll not likely be fitting back into my travelling trousers for the flight home in three weeks.

The list of dishes and restaurants to try in Rome is long. Ducking out of the summer heat radiating from the Piazza Navona, I pop into a quirky little wine bar-cafe piping out retro tunes and order a quick round of espressos and a bottle of sparkling water. The waitress at Mimi e Coco not only serves up exceptional coffee, but also warm conversation and a complimentary plate of house-made biscotti and a shot of digestivo… at 11am. There’s a true pride and honesty to hospitality in Italy, and an unexpected stop can leave you feeling like family.

It’s common for food guides to suggest leaving the main hub for the suburbs for a more authentic experience, but I beg to differ; if I’ve got limited time, I don’t want to spend 20 minutes each way in a cab, instead of strolling the streets between meals.

The good news is that in central Rome you’re guaranteed of finding what you have a hankering for within a half-hour walk max. The city is made for strolling – just factor in a mid-afternoon rest if it’s summer. Whether you base your dining options around sightseeing, or the sightseeing around meal reservations, do a little research and book in advance. Numbers are capped at attractions, and you won’t get in without a time slot.

But walk-ins were welcome at Taverna Romana where one of my most delightful meals was a cash-only affair. Down a side-street minutes from the Colosseum, the restaurant has been an institution since the early 19th century. The food and wine highlight the bounty of Lazio produce.

Anchovies gently resting on a bed of buffalo mozzarella married the ocean’s salinity with creamy sweetness, followed by a plate of coratella in bianco con carciofi: lamb offal with Roman artichokes. Fresh homemade tonnarelli pasta comes with a choice between carbonara or cacio e pepe. The star of both dishes? Salty Roman pecorino. The trick to trying more is to share a dish from each course – or, if travelling solo, ask for a half serve. It’s not cheating; on the contrary you’ll be respected for sampling more of the menu in true Italian fashion.

A walk home is just as enjoyable as a meal in Rome. A giddy haze of wine, pasta and just enough room left for a gelato while taking in the warm summer air, and the communal joy of being in Italy.

Hotel de la Ville

Rocco Forte Hotels is a family-owned group of international hotels, led by Sir Rocco Forte and his sister, Olga Polizzi. Hotel de la Ville, housed in an 18th-century palazzo metres from the top of the Spanish Steps, joined the portfolio in 2019 after a two-year renovation.

The warm, welcome and personable service make an impact, alongside the stylish surrounds and the prime location. Interiors are inspired by the heady luxury itineraries of the historical Grand Tour. It’s five-star luxury with a price tag to match (rooms are around $1800 a night).

My room leaves nothing wanting: a bed graced with Italian sheets, a cute little velvet couch, bowl of fresh cherries, well-stocked minibar, a spacious marble bathroom almost as large as the room itself stocked with Irene Forte toiletries. Then there’s the window that peeks over the top of the Spanish Steps. It’s cosy – this is inner-city Europe after all – and space is used cleverly rather than frugally.

It’s the dining and drinking spaces that really elevate this hotel. Cielo rooftop bar is buzzing when we arrive for Friday evening drinks, just in time to watch the sunset over the pink-hued rooftops and domed monuments of the Roman skyline. You’d be pushed to find a better spot in the city that combines views, drinks and don’t-miss-this vibes. A DJ plays relaxed, semi-retro Italian tunes – it feels like I’m in my very own rom-com. At Cielo restaurant, dinner service under the stars is precise yet relaxed.

Back at reception, the concierge duo on duty have Les Clefs d’Or (keys of gold) pinned on their lapel – a serious mark of service. Over the course of my stay, nothing is a problem: restaurant reservations, rainy weather changes to my itinerary, and I’m gently, yet firmly, persuaded to take a hire bike along the Via Appia rather than walk it. Very good advice, and the retro-style bike that was organised came complete with comfy seat and vintage basket.

5 Places to drink and dine 

1 .  Roscioli

Roscioli is A must-visit bustling   eatery for food lovers, it’s pricey   but you’ll not find better Italian produce and wine to sample under one roof. Don’t miss the burrata and semi-dried tomatoes. 

2.  Hotel de Russie

Cocktail  hour at Hotel de Russie is for people-watching  and an aperitivo alongside birdsong and tinkling glasses.

3.  L’Antica Enoteca

Minutes  from the Spanish Steps, this  classic enoteca has been enlivening palates since 1726. Take a journey around Italy by the glass, or ask if there’s something interesting that’s just come in.

4.  Taverna Romana

A rustic   and casual lunch stop   minutes from the Roman Forum and Colosseum.

5.  Gelato

Hunt out the good  stuff. Gelateria Millennium  is a few minutes’ walk from the Vatican. Otaleg has classic and slightly crazy flavours, while the chain Venchi is reliable.

The writer was a guest of Rocco Forte Hotels, staying at Hotel de la Ville and Hotel de Russie.